Behind The Beauty with Sonam Chandna Sagar

Sonam Chandna Sagar approaches makeup artistry with a deep understanding of her muses, a move that allows her to anchor their personality to the final look. More on the products that she loves (including one that she specially sources from Korea purely for the passion of it), her inspirations, what she loves about the people that she works with and her 'lash stash' that she always has on hand.

I LIKE TO START MY DAY with a cold brew and music from the '90s and 2000s. If I am heading to work, I also watch something fun before. I look at design color palettes on Pinterest for inspiration for a look. I like to take in elements that elicit sensory responses. Both for me and for my clients, I am very big on individuality and the idea of finding your own unique version of something. My day usually in volves a lot of traveling. Once I am done with work, I try to get home before rush hour to my husband and two cats; we do what we call a 'catwich' with my husband and I on either side of the couch and the cats snuggled in between. When I am not working, I like to spend time on activities that have nothing to do with beauty or makeup; this keeps things from getting too one-dimensional for me and helps me perform better when I am back on set.

MY BEAUTY ROUTINE IS very inspired by Japanese and Chinese beauty products at the moment. They have some truly exceptional brands and all their products are formulated keeping in mind humidity and hot weather, which works perfectly for Bombay. I love the Lasting Liquid Eyeliner from Canmake (it has a really fine tip that lets you achieve the most romantic and beautiful shape without budging), the Magic Chameleon Eyeshadow from SheenEffect, Menokin's 30 Seconds Korean Bubble Primer and the Uhue High Shine Lip Gloss. I have always believed that less is more for me when it comes to skincare and especially on days when I am not working, I just do a few spritzes of the d'Alba White Truffle First Spray Serum.

My look is incomplete without finishing the lashes; I love false eyelashes and get mine custom-made from a lash technician in South Korea. I am always getting asked what mascara I use, they look that realistic. I also really enjoy finishing powders, the one from Kosas is one of my favorites — it has a beautiful silky texture and gives the most natural, skin-like finish.

I GREW UP in a vibrant Punjabi household where grooming was very much a part of life. This wasn't something we did because it was expected by the men in my family from the women, taking care of yourself was just the norm and something I was always very tuned into. As I got older, I saw the fun in it; I have grown up around women who are aware of their looks, so I have had some great role models when it comes to beauty and self-care. Looking back, my idea of beauty and how I approach my work today has been significantly shaped by my childhood and a strong understanding of the concept of pretty privilege, including the effect that it has and how it can make someone's life easier.

I GOT MY START by cold-messaging people on Facebook (the only social media platform that was around when I started). One thing led to another and I began working as an assistant on set. For me, makeup is a form of creative expression. It feels meditative. Being on set felt natural to me; my father was in film production and I was always very observant as a child. Initially, he wasn't very aligned with my decision when I decided to switch from editorial and post-production to makeup artistry because the industry didn't look anything like what it does right now. So I didn't really get any assistance from him while I was looking for work inspite of the fact that he was from the industry, but he eventually came on board when he saw the potential of what I had to offer.

A MEMORABLE PROJECT FOR ME WAS when I worked with Western Union Bank; I was part of a group of makeup artists who were working with daughters of slum-dwellers from Dharavi and I was assigned to the girl with the darkest skin. I was actually hoping that I would get to do her look because I knew that no one else could do her face in the way I could. After I was done and her eyes opened, I knew from her face that the idea that she had of herself — the person she really wanted to be — was finally out there. She looked far more confident in herself; it was the same girl as before, really, just someone who felt more seen.

WHEN PAINTING A FACE, we tend to forget that the muscles are moving. I have taken my time to understand the practice of working on a dynamic face that is always in motion. Muscle memory is crucial and as you get older, you develop a better understanding of human emotions and consequently, your client. I feel like I work with a specific kind of muse; they are all very different in their own right but what makes them so similar to each other is that they don't just want to look pretty. Like me, they approach makeup like design, a strategic move that brings something to the table. It is the kind of sensibility that comes from a deep understanding who you are. A question that I am always asking when I am working on a face is, what can we convince someone of through makeup? Because it has that power.

WORKING IN BEAUTY has given me a lot of flexibility because makeup is a way for me to express who I am. I think it is a wonderful tool to help liberate yourself and when used well, helps you in finding who you truly are. I like to think that especially because of what I do, I don’t find anyone unattractive, I see them with potential that makeup has the ability to tap into.

A BEAUTY PRODUCT THAT I CANNOT LIVE WITHOUT is my lash stash. I always have my mascara, lash curler, and false eyelashes with me wherever I go. 

THE BIGGEST LESSON THAT I HAVE LEARNT AS A MAKEUP ARTIST is that it is vital to get bored and be okay with doing nothing, because some of your best ideas come when your brain is empty. It is also very easy to become sensitive to criticism, so it is important to keep the focus on bettering the quality of your work and your journey as a makeup artist, rather than external validation. And don't ever, ever be late, it is highly unprofessional and especially in this industry, reputation is everything.

I HAVE ALWAYS WANTED TO WORK WITH Rihanna. There’s so much personality to her, the way she is always experimenting with her looks is very inspiring.

A LOOK THAT WILL ALWAYS SURVIVE THE TRENDS is the one where your skin looks clean and fresh, with flushed cheeks and eyes that look like you have gotten eight hours of sleep. You have gone to the gym, you’ve taken your supplements, you are always on top of drinking exactly the amount of water that your body needs. Bobbi Brown was the pioneer of this look and Glossier and now Rhode are its newer versions.

A MAKEUP PRODUCT THAT I WISH EXISTED... none. I think we’ve made too much and I don’t think there is anything that is left to make. As a makeup artist, I am big on the idea that it is not what you have, but what you do with it so I think there is a lot that we can work with right now. I wish there was more product awareness and a better understanding of what we can do with all the amazing products, whether it is through educational content on social media or perhaps, an opportunity to learn how to do your makeup, regardless of whether or not you want to be a professional makeup artist.

MY MAKEUP SIGNATURE IS all about women who look unapproachable. I like the vixen makeup style. I like the bad girl. Even in my softest beauty looks, I always bring some edge. I anchor in my client’s personality with makeup; the body is our home and our personality is what makes it what it is, after all. Somehow, I am always drawn to clients who share my perspectives and values on beauty and what it means to look and feel beautiful; in retrospect, I don't think I have ever intentionally sought clients like that, but as they say, like always attracts like.