Behind The Beauty with Madhu Sapre
- Apr 29
- 9 min read
Speaking to Madhu Sapre feels like speaking to someone you’ve known for a long, long time. When you watch her campaign for the House of Masaba x Amrapali Jewels collection, you understand why she has long been hailed as one of India’s original supermodels and a true trailblazer. And yet, what stood out most to me amongst my conversation with her is something unexpected: a version of Madhu that is refreshingly herself — high-fashion, yes, but also deeply authentic and effortlessly aspirational.
While the questions in this interview initially focused primarily on beauty, our conversation veered far and wide, touching upon everything from her childhood in Mumbai, to her big win at Miss India and her experience at the Miss Universe competition that changed the way India was perceived globally, to her days modelling in London and Paris. She spoke of her father, often and fondly, in a way that reminded me of the relationship that I share with my own father. Sapre calls him her biggest inspiration, the one who encouraged her into sports at a young age and later, into modelling, as well as her biggest strength when the going got tough — and it hasn’t always been an easy journey for her.
But then again, when is it ever?
As I gathered my notes from this interview, I was left feeling so complete with every single one of her answers and not just because she was so generous with them — it was because every single one of them came from her heart. From her passionate discourse on cleansers (she animatedly recounts the time she first saw the Christian Dior Cleansing Milk at the Duty Free on one of her earliest travels abroad), to her bagging the cult-classic Garden Sarees assignment that also happened to be her first one ever (although you’ll never be able to tell), you begin to understand why she has remained an icon for an entire generation of women — myself included. There is wisdom in her words, humour in her recollections and a softness that lingers long after our conversation is over.
When I finally closed the interview, I couldn’t help shake the feeling that I had just spoken to someone who sees beauty as, more than anything, a language of living, a way of being.
And that is the Madhu Sapre I’m grateful to have met.
Your career began at such a defining moment for Indian fashion. What were those early days like — your first campaign, your first big move abroad, and the experiences that shaped you?
The ‘90s was a golden period for the Indian fashion industry — it was just beginning to boom. My first ever campaign that I did was in 1990, for Garden Sarees, and it was presented in an incredible, high-fashion way, the kind that you saw internationally at the time. It was an amazing experience and I couldn’t have had a better breakthrough.
In 1992, I went for the Miss India competition. After winning the Miss India crown, I had only fifteen days to prepare for the Miss Universe competition that was being held in Bangkok that year. My dad was, once again, my biggest support during this time. He coached me, and taught me so much of what I needed to know to present myself on this big international stage, right down to suggesting the makeup that I should go for. While preparing for the competition, my dad took care of my physical training and grooming me on how I should present myself on stage (he bought old video cassettes from second hand shops in Churchgate of international beauty pageants from the previous years so that we could watch it together and get everything right) and my mother took care of my skin and weight with the help of the right diet.
Very few people know this but I also had a little gym in my bedroom. I was very fascinated by American women’s body building competitions and would buy magazines in second hand shops which had the photos of the winners and try to mimic their posing styles.
During the one month stay leading up to the final day, I noticed how well-versed and well-groomed the other participants (eighty of us in total!) were, particularly during the swimsuit round. After returning back to India post my win at Miss Universe where I was the second runner up (and how and why I lost the crown truly went down as a moment in history), I wrote to the late Mr. Pradeep Guha — who played a key role in managing the Miss India flagship — on the necessary changes that needed to be made to the competition in India. I suggested that it was crucial to add a swimsuit round at the Miss India competition, which wasn’t there at the time. Being comfortable in your body in a swimsuit is a big part of the Miss Universe competition and while I was able to pull it off given my sports background, I knew that because of the cultural pressure there were not a lot of participants willing to present themselves in a swimsuit with confidence. But after taking in my feedback, they found a way, and that completely changed how India was perceived at Miss Universe in the years to come.
In 1993, I went to London for modelling, through a very famous agency called The Models1. But as it turns out, I was way ahead of my time there. I was also in Paris for a couple of years after that for modelling, where I had an amazing time and much better acceptance than in London. I worked with an agency called Partners — very quirky and cool. I became an in-house model for designer Thierry Mugler’s ready-to-wear line, it was a great experience. But I was missing India too much and so, I made the decision to come back to Mumbai.
What surprised you the most about how beauty was perceived outside India when you first entered the global modeling scene?
When I went abroad to London and Paris to model, what surprised me was how they labelled me and other different kinds of beauties and looks. I was the “exotic” beauty — I am olive-skinned and I tan when my skin is exposed to sun. But they put me in the same category of dark-skinned girls. There was so much compartmentalization and categorization of beauty. And although back in the 90s there were a few dark-skinned girls who bagged some of the big campaigns and walked the runways, mostly the white-skinned girls ruled the fashion industry at that time. As an Indian model, they didn’t know where to place me.
How do you think the definition of Indian beauty has changed today, as compared to when you were starting out?
It’s not as conservative anymore, and so much has changed in terms of what is considered beautiful. Everyone is more open-minded and accepting as well; age is no bar. And I am so relieved that we are no longer in the era of ‘fair and lovely’.
And in recent years, a growing number of Indian models have been modelling abroad and walking the runways for some of the world’s most storied fashion houses. I’m happy because we’ve truly come a long way.
In one of our earlier conversations, you mentioned that you don’t use as many products now as you did a few years back. Why is that?
Since a very young age, I always thought about death and pondered over various spiritual questions like my purpose and the meaning of life, and how to make the most of the short journey from birth to death. I was also an avid reader and also read a lot of books written by great enlightened masters. I also attended the vipassana meditation course in Igatpuri in India a few times. Though glamour has always been a big part of my life, I have also always been a very simple, grounded person. Losing my father and then losing my brother prematurely when he was fifty-three had a big impact on me as well.
I have changed gradually over the years. I am in my early fifties. I feel my age and I am proud of it. There is a lot of peace, calm and most importantly, clarity. I felt really lucky when I had my daughter; I had achieved great success in life, but I had always wanted to be a mother too. I felt complete. And after Indira’s birth, all my focus turned to her. Life happened and shopping and everything else dropped off my priority list. Of course, I still go to the shops now and then, but I will only buy the things that are necessary. I like to keep things simple, now more than ever.
Madhu (right) and her brother, as children
A beauty ritual or practice that has stayed with you through the years.
As a model, I got into the habit of cleansing thoroughly, thanks to all the makeup that we had on our faces throughout the day. Above all, I enjoy cleaning my face and a cleanser is the one product that I have continued to invest in over the years. As I’ve gotten older, I have also started focusing a lot on hydration — both inside and out. I try to eat well on most days and make sure I get all my vitamins in!
Your beauty philosophy in 3 words.
Symmetry, order, and proportion.
What does self-care mean to you? How do you practice self-care?Well, it has changed over the years. To me, self-care is self-love. I was an athlete so in my twenties and thirties, it was mostly external care — working out, eating right and using good products. But eventually I realized, I was taking on a lot of stress and not even realising it. Then one day, I found myself so exhausted and without any energy or love inside me because I had given it all to other people and situations.
So I changed my life. I began understanding what true self-love even meant and slowly started to learn about my limitations too. And I can say I am in a very good place now. I practice self care internally as well externally. As you heal, less becomes more. I meditate and I also sleep and wake up early. I love wine, but I limit myself to very few glasses in the week. I go on long walks and of course, I enjoy my very basic but fulfilling routine of cleansing and moisturizing my skin.
Who is your beauty inspiration?
Both my mum and dad are my inspirations when it comes to beauty and self care. Both beautiful human beings, inside as well as outside, with many great qualities, but both polar opposites as well — my dad was the open-minded and modern one, a complete atheist, while my mum was very religious. I really looked up to both of them and learnt a lot. My dad always pushed me to look after myself; he himself was an athlete boxer and was amazingly fit. He was also very well read on world topics. My mum, on the other hand, was a great classical singer and played the sitar as well. They both were also amazing cooks, but with different styles.
Apart from running a very successful business both my parents did a lot of social work and helped a lot of people. Because of my dad, I learnt the importance of working out and keeping myself fit and healthy. My mum taught me how to enrich and beautify my inner world; it was through her religious spiritual side that I learnt how to nurture who I was on the inside. So I got the best of both worlds. From them, I learnt that beauty isn’t only about how you look on the outside.
My dad passed away about twelve years ago. My mum at eighty-one years old is still gorgeous — a very natural beauty, and still very fiery. Another one of my beauty inspirations, from a very young age, was the PEOPLE section at the end of the TIME magazine, which my dad had subscribed to. It featured all kinds of successful people from all walks of life and I was so fascinated reading about all of them — they influenced me a lot.
Products that you enjoy using right now.
I feel my sexiest with clean skin, hair done and a pedicure with red polish. I use Bioderma’s H2O Micellar Water Makeup Remover to remove makeup as well as Lancome’s Bi-Facil Double Action Eye Makeup Remover. I enjoy the Clio Makeup Cleansing Balm, a fabulous product and I love the texture. Sisley does a cleansing milk and moisturizer that I enjoy as well. My lip balm is the Smith's Rosebud Salve and my makeup is mostly all M.A.C. I love wearing kajal too!
]What do you know now, that you wish you had known when you were starting out?That I was always good enough for myself. No external validation required.
A lesson in beauty and self-worth that you learnt, that you wish to pass on to your daughter.
Keep your body and mind fit and the rest will follow. She is thirteen now – in the eighth standard. I introduced Indira to sports at a very young age, like my dad did with me. After trying a few different sports she chose artisic gymnastics, which she loves and takes part in competitions. Like me, exercise is an integral part of her daily routine, She is also an avid reader like me and her father and so far very good in school as well.
In subtle ways I keep reminding her, that she is good enough for herself and to not let anybody push her around. Love yourself first before loving another. I don’t know if she would like to be a model or actress like me but she is free to be what she wants to be and I will always support her.
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